Anywhere Wednesday: The Black Sea

Bulgaria? Maybe….Read this and you’ll be convinced too.

So, we went to Key West, again.

And we did nothing. Really, nothing. There was some booze and lots of long walks, a nap or two, more food than is advised but that’s pretty much it. So instead of a play-by-play I’ll give some summary thoughts.

1. Lodging: We really like Almond Tree Inn but might be ready to stay elsewhere. The rooms are large and very well kept, the service is excellent, the pool and hot tub relaxing, but…We go out for these meandering walks and find ourselves intrigued by other inns, B&Bs, and rental properties. So maybe the Gardens next year. Or not.

2. Things we won’t do again: Roof Top Cafe has lost us. I wonder if we just happened to have a great meal last year and mediocre is their standard. We went for a bar snack/light meal around 8:30 on a Sunday and had both poor service and food. The place was empty and still the bartender took FOREVER to serve us, recommended a wine that was really not very good, and then served us cold food. That also didn’t taste that great. Very disappointed. We had a similar experience at the bar last year, but figured since our dinner was so good it was an anomaly. I think the good dinner was the anomaly. We also are over Hog’s Breath Saloon. I like the music but it smells like college in there. And the bathrooms are icky. There is a shit ton of live music in Key West and I’m not sure why we stayed attached to this place. Anyway, next time, these two are out. And why, oh why, do people like Half Shell Raw Bar or Turtle Kraals? Cheap food, that tastes like cheap food, the most poorly schucked oysters of all time, conch fritters that had no discernable conch in them, and drunken tourists (I resemble that remark) but not the good kind. I’m being judgy, I don’t care, I didn’t like either of these places at all. Maybe I missed something by going during happy hour.

3. New (to us) places we loved: Square One is really good. We ate there twice, partly out of convenience, partly because Devils on Horseback are amazing!! I would only eat there once next time and stick to tapas rather than entrees. Nothing wrong with the entrees, just we enjoyed the tapas more. Off the Hook was great too; they had me at duck bacon. We both had fish tacos and loved them and will return for more. The service was great, the food was great, they deserve some love. The place is really really small though, like I can’t believe they run a full kitchen out of that building small. And how did we not go to Santiago’s Bodega before? I don’t know, but we’ll go back. I liked the happy hour sangria, Jake was not as enthused, but the wine list is big, the tapas delicious and it’s off the beaten path a bit meaning everyone is there because they made the effort to go there. We stopped by 2 Cents for happy hour and free bacon, left to go to Half Shell Raw Bar (see above) and ended up going back later that night for sliders, met a guy who put Jake to shame in both height and liver, had a billion moscow mules and then gin and tonics and regretted it only a little the next day.  The food I had (apps) was good, the drinks were great, the bacon a bonus.

4. Old faithfuls: Grand Vin is still great. Love the porch, the people, Donna and Greg. Mainstay for us. Think daily. La Creperie also nails it again. We ate three of four breakfasts there. Mmmm, brie.

5. Prana Spa. Its a good massage, priced like resorts are. I recommend it, but in the end it was similar to every massage I’ve ever had. It’s a nice perk on vacation, but I can get them at home pretty easily, just as enjoyably, and for less money. I’m biased as I have Eve Buckley as a SIL and she has magic hands.

So, we shall return and maybe we’ll even go on a boat, or swim, or something other than sleep, eat and drink.

2014 Disney Food and Wine, Wine, and Wine Festival-PreTrip

I don’t think I started (let alone finished) blogging our family trip to Disney in May. I’m sorry. Really, I am, but honestly, I can’t even remember what we did, other than the room was great and Adam loved the slide at the pool. But I’ve got one piece of advice from that trip that I’m going to try to follow on this one: don’t drink so much wine!

Now that you’ve stopped laughing and have wiped the tears away, I’ll remind you (did I tell you this then?) that we went to the Jiko Wine Tasting at 3PM one day, left Rad with my parents, then had two before we left for dinner at CG and so instead of going to our room went to the Bay Lake Towers Top of the World bar…where I’m pretty sure I was over served. Then we went to dinner and we asked for the waiter to choose wine pairings for our apps and entrees, which he did. And then it gets very fuzzy and much money was spent and food may have been enjoyed and my kid wakes up at 6AM. So, you know, suckage.

This is a kid-free trip for FWF, so I feel less bad about Mommy’s overindulging on this trip (really, don’t do that thing I did above, it’s not cool). Some great stuff is on the agenda including Party For The Senses and French Regional Lunch-Champagne!! And we are using up three days on old tickets because we’ll get new annual passes for our family trip for all three of us in April, so this feels like we can relax and not try to get the most bang for the buck out of our park days.

It’s been said that Epcot is the world’s greatest bar with the world’s largest cover charge and I’m about to find out if that’s true. We have to use a day of our tickets just to get into Epcot for PFTS which is also bunch of money for the separate ticket and another day to get to the FRUNCH plus paying for that meal. You can do math, you can figure out what’s invested. I swear if I didn’t have DVC or a boatload of Disney Rewards I’d gag on the amounts.

We’ve typically done Epcot’s Food and Wine Festival on weekdays and have never done the events other than the booths and one or two cooking demos, so this will be very different: the weekend crowd, the party and meal, the FP+ that I’m booking but probably not using.

We leave Saturday, 1PM, Southwest direct flight. Rad goes to Baca and Mimi’s house. Quicksilver is picking us up. I considered Magical Express but for a short trip it seems like a waste of time;  we land at 3:40 and PFTS is at 7. I know ME can be as little as 2 hours or as much as 3 from airport to resort, but this level of good-looking takes more maintenance time pre-party then ME could provide for me.

So far some very good things have happened for us regarding this trip. The first was a resort change. I booked Animal Kingdom Villas (its my home resort–you book where you own at 11 months, and others are allowed at 7 months) at 11 months out but then decided to waitlist for Boardwalk Villas at 7 months. Then I forgot completely. I logged in one day in July to see how many points we had left and if it was worth renting them to someone or banking them and found that we had gotten BWV! The next day a letter came in the mail confirming.

I also took advantage of being a Disney Visa card holder and booked my FWF experiences (or wallet emptiers, you be the judge) before the general public. I was concerned as there was confusion last year with CMs who didn’t know that Visa card holders could book, a closed reservation system, and people saying they didn’t get either their perk or their desired ressie. But no problems; Disney Food Blog is certainly the most comprehesive resource on FWF, booking, perks and the like. 

Plans as they stand:
SAT-Fly, QS to BWV, get fancy, go to PFTS (yes, I’m dressing like I paid as much as I paid to go to this thing; dressing well is about politeness to the other guests, the chefs, and my wallet. And honestly, I like dressing up), possible hit MK for late night after (yes, still dressed for the evening…) but maybe just BLT bar to see 11PM Wishes…We’ll see.

SUN-Lazy morning, maybe the pool, certainly coffee. FRUNCH at noon, til 3:30!! Then leave Epcot (gasp) because I’ve heard about you drinkers on the weekends and the bad behavior (read the DIS thread on this, I’ve never seen what people are describing, but then maybe I’m too busy enjoying myself to notice middle aged drunks at Epcot) and head to HS for some thrill rides. I’ve got FP+s for the biggies, but again, I’m not married to any of this, perhaps we’ll sit by the pool and relax. Take a nap. Oh, sleep, I miss you so.

MON-Soaring at 10AM FP+, then FWF around the world. That’s it.

TUE-sleep some more, pack, go home at 1PM. Pick up Weeman and love on him a ton. How can you not love all over this?

Making “Daddy Bread” (and very excited about flour…)

See you when I get back!!!! 
I’ll be instagramming and tweeting tons too: @onafullstomach

Jake’s Birthday and the Bragdon House Bed and Breakfast

While eating breakfast with six other guests of the Bragdon House B&B following our day and night of celebrating Jake’s birthday, this conversation happened:

Other Guest: where did you have dinner?

Jake: We didn’t.

Kim: We just went to Halsey’s and had drinks.

Jake: Well, we ordered a pizza there.

Kim: So, I guess that was dinner.

Jake: And then we went to Parker’s for a drink.

Kim: We did?

Jake: Yeah, you had a White Russian.

Kim: I did? Why did I do that?

Jake: They didn’t have any coffee for an Irish Coffee, so you ordered a White Russian. I don’t know, you did that thing where you want more drinks when you shouldn’t have any. 


It’s a good thing the owner followed up with her own story of spending too much time at Parker’s getting “shitfaced” when she first opened the B&B. I felt much less like an ass after that. Still hungover, but not an ass. It’s a win. And, who do I think I am? The Dude? White Russian? Good lord…

We started our day last tuesday with a backroads drive to Heron Hill Winery to have lunch at their Blue Heron Cafe. The wine is good, the food is middling, the view is spectacular and it’s one of the few places in the Finger Lakes where you can sit outside AND have a waiter AND have a view. We ordered a cheese/meat board, a salad and a sandwich along with a bottle of semi-dry reisling. Nothing to complain about, but I’d argue that Fox Run’s cheese/meat board is a far better value (but no waiter, and the view is good, but not as good). We did the same last year for Jake’s birthday, so I suppose it’s becoming something of a tradition now. I remember the food being better last year, but we also went on a Friday; perhaps the busier days result in better food?

View from Blue Heron Cafe, Heron Hill Winery, Hammondsport, NY

We continued on from there into the village of Hammondsport, to have another glass of wine at The Village Tavern. We sat outside at a sidewalk table and enjoyed the view of the town square. We typically only have a drink here, or a bar snack (and by bar snack I mean oysters…so good!) and then head off elsewhere. Today was the same. Hammondsport is a quaint little village that we continually wish we could live in, but can’t figure out how we would support ourselves in the middle of nowhere. Note, my work from home thing is quite a bit more from home than it is work right now. We decided to head back north along the eastern side of Keuka Lake then cut over to the western side of Seneca Lake to stop at Fox Run for another cheese/meat platter and wine to go. Our B&B was advertised as having a great back porch and we wanted to take advantage of that. 

Back porch view at Bragdon House Bed and Breakfast, Geneva, NY

The Bragdon House did not disapppoint!! The back porch has both an screened and an open area with lots of very comfortable seating. Many B&Bs have porches but I don’t always feel at home on them. Either they aren’t comfy, or they are too tiny, too sparse, or too hard in terms of seating. For example, last year we stayed at the Magnolia House, on the other side of Senece Lake for Jake’s birthday and while they had a huge porch, it wasn’t very inviting. Perhaps it was the size of the B&B (more like an Inn) or the banquet like feel of the dining room, or the uncushioned adirondack chairs, but I just felt like I was imposing the whole time. But this place, the Bragdon House, was like being on your own porch. Much more casual, much more relaxed. We sat at the high table, put our feet up, opened our wine and enjoyed the view of the lake through the trees. 

The Bragdon House is small, four rooms, and right on Main St in Geneva. You can walk downtown to the restaurants or a little further to the lake front or Hobart College. They serve a great breakfast and have a mini-fridge on the porch for your wine and leftovers. Note that one review on tripadvisor was miffed at the lack of theme (?) and that he didn’t get a complimentary glass of wine. To even give away wine, a B&B has to have a liquor license and this place can’t get one because they are within 200 feet of a church. Seems silly, but its BYOW. Fine with me. My only complaint is that I needed a glass of water in the middle of the night and found we didn’t have any in our room. Hardly a deal breaker, and most people wouldn’t have noticed but, as you now know, I had a wee bit too much to drink and was parched.  Really, the owner couldn’t have been nicer and more our type! She recently had a baby and totally had her act together despite being up at 3AM to feed an 11 week old. We’ll be going back!


Travel Before and After Radicchio

This post was written as a guest post on The Mommy Happiness Project, a blog by my friend Jessica about how Mom’s can remember their own happiness and self-care while being attentive to their families.


Before I had my son, my husband and I were fond of armchair quarterbacking the parents we saw when on vacation. And we were judgmental. Judgy McJudgerton. After our discussion of what was so wrong with those parents, we would remind ourselves that nobody asked us and laugh that we would never be in that position anyway. Because we weren’t having kids. Ever. Never ever.


Vacation/travel was way of life for us. A couple weeks in Italy in the summer; long weekends in DC, San Francisco, Traverse City, Galveston, the Finger lakes, Toronto; bike tours of Ireland; motorcycle trips in Switzerland; almost three weeks in South Korea; an unhealthy dedication to the Disney Food and Wine Festival. I had spreadsheets, travel apps, plastic folders, and the details of every trip down to the minute. I even planned “free time.” Seriously, it was marked out on our schedule as free time. And then…summer 2010. The Tierce Release Party at Fox Run, Italy for two weeks and then more Finger Lakes wineries. Over the course of a month with more wine than I can reasonably calculate we began to speculate that I might be pregnant. All that secret advice for traveling parents was going to come back to haunt us.

We made a decision to not let having a kid change our lives in terms our travel enjoyment. Excuse me while I collapse in tears of laughter. What were we thinking? So how does a couple bitten by the travel bug maintain that lifestyle with a kid? Lots and lots of changes. How does anyone with a hobby they love keep that part of themselves alive when your new life means you aren’t the center anymore?

Adapt, change, learn and remember what you loved about that hobby in the first place.

I still plan as if I suffer from some kind of travel OCD but now my bookmarks include travel tips with kids, kid friendly hotels, airline policies, and stroller/crib/toy rental companies. My flight plans no longer focus on arriving somewhere as early as possible but instead on the least amount of time in airports. I never checked bags (two weeks is about my max) before but now have lists of what can be checked and what I want to carry on. Most importantly, we travel both with and without our son. I know this is controversial to some and I’ll be the first to say that the pangs of guilt are tremendous and can only be dampened by lots and lots of fine dining and booze. I’m not kidding about that last part. Facetime and drinks can easy many a pang.

So what does our travel life look like now?
We still travel often, but with more repeated destinations to make planning a bit easier. There are two week-long vacations annually; one with our son, one as a couple, usually Disney World and Key West (I’m sure you can figure out which trip is which). Also, three-four short adult trips annually, usually nearby and usually one-two nights; Finger Lakes, Boston, Detroit (I know, but we have lots of friends there…), Vermont, etc. And finally, two-three mommy/Adam trips per year to visit with friends and family. Nothing out of the country yet but we plan to go back to Italy in 2015 for our wedding anniversary with our first family trip to Europe in 2017, probably every other year after that with hopes that Adam will be ready for and interested in cycling tours when he’s 13 or so.

Minimal daily planning—we fly by the seat of our pants more and really try not do everything. I’ve always wondered about those people who stand in the an amusement park demanding that their kids have fun because the trip was expensive (I wondered that before and after having my own) or who insist that their child needs to stop having fun doing what ever it is they are doing to go do some other thing that might be fun. If Adam wants to go on the Indy Cars in the Magic Kingdom eight times in a row (then Dumbo, then seven more times on the cars…) I’m not going to stop him. He’s happy, I’m happy he’s happy, rock on.

My parents go with us on family trips and it’s the best money ever spent. We bought into the Disney Vacation Club just so that this could happen. With our DVC membership I can get a two-bedroom villa with a full kitchen on Disney property for six nights and put my parents in their own room. I get babysitting for two or three nights on those trips. Sometimes that means a nice meal and sometimes it means sitting on the pool deck in the dark with drinks.

I have a kid who thinks it’s normal to sleep in the bathroom. I know some people won’t like this either. Adam has never been a good sleeper and most certainly cannot sleep with other people in the room. It’s never happened, not once, since he was just weeks old. He also doesn’t sleep in cars. I’ve got a horror story from when he was six months old and we tried to sleep all in one room…Until he was just past two he slept in a packnplay in the extra bathroom of the DVC villa or the spare rooms of who ever we might be visiting. Now I use the Intex inflatable toddler bed for our trips and he still sleeps in the sink alcove in the DVC villa. That bed is worth 10x the $35 it cost. I’m hoping that next year he can handle sleeping in the living room on the pull out sofa, but I’ll bring that bed just in case.

I have a checked bag with a noise machine, twilight turtle, toys, blow up mattress, sheets, and goldfish crackers in it. No explanation needed. My carry on has duplo/lego blocks (a quiet toy that is also many toys in one and keeps my kid occupied for long periods on airplanes and in airports), gummies, extra pants, a tablet with headphones, and a Winnie the Pooh stuffed animal in it. I still wonder what all those other parents are carrying in all of those bags!! We’ve used a sling carrier and rented a stroller for most trips and now that Adam is three we use neither. I hate the car seat in the airport nonsense, but you can’t count on a rental car agency to have a good one, so I still carry that. But not much else. I can buy food and drinks anywhere, even an airplane, I don’t feel compelled to carry food for a village on the plane ride.

I don’t drink as much in airports. I don’t sleep as much on vacation. I make paper chains to count the days to our trips. My three year old knows how to go through security. I’ve argued with TSA about breast milk and pumps (that’s one conversation I NEVER thought I’d have…). I’ve carried a backpack on my back and a baby in a sling on my front for longer than any human should have to. My travel memories now include waterslides, pony rides, kiddy roller coasters, failed sand castles, and pushing all of the buttons on the elevator (I’m sorry to all who endured that…).

Our next trip is a Mommy/Adam road trip to Michigan, in two weeks. We’ll drive across Canada and I will answer “why” 10,000 times an hour. We’ll stop to see Niagara Falls and the Blue Water Bridge, eat fast food in rest stops, and play on new playgrounds. We’ll sleep at a friend’s house with our blow up bed. We’ll visit the zoo and science center. Mostly, we’ll continue to make travel fun and an important part of our lives.

Anywhere Wednesday

We just spent 24 hours in Finger Lakes wine country, visiting two of our favorite wineries, discovering a new-to-us bed and breakfast and having ill-advised drinks too late at night. So today, if I could be anywhere, it would probably be here, sleeping it off:

Le Blanc Spa and Resort, Cancun, Mexico

Le Blanc Spa and Resort, Cancun, Mexico

Smash ‘Em Up Derby

Wayne County Fair (NY) Demolition Derby, 2014

As Radicchio calls its. Or called it. Yesterday he informed me that you could “actually, call it Demolition Derby, Mama, it has two names.”

We took him last year and he’s been talking about it ever since, a full year of smash ‘em up questions and comments from a nearly three-year old! He won a car from the duck pond game that is defying its cheap construction and going strong after multiple demonstrations of how cars smash into things. (This car should be used to demonstrate how translating some things to English doesn’t really work:

Champion Noble Charisma Preeminent Car

Champion Noble Charisma Preeminent Car

Those are all words for awesome and powerful but in the context of race car stickers, not quite right either. In any case, one little boy was very excited to go the Demolition Derby. When he heard there would also be carnival rides I think his little head exploded. We’ve been to several carnivals this year, and contrary to popular stereotypes, both the rides and employees have been outstanding. Sure, they’re a little beat up, but the kids rides have been attended to by some very nice people who clearly like, or at least don’t mind, children. We’ve hit up the Williamson Apple Blossom Carnival, Fairville Firemen’s Carnival, Webster Fireman’s Carnival and now, the Wayne County Fair. Each time we’ve bought the all you can ride pass ($15) and Adam has ridden the Alligator train countless times.

At 5:45 PM we bought our ticket, rode four rides and then the deluge began. We waited, at a hotdog and popcorn (this is a food and travel blog, right?), then it stopped and we rode three more rides before it started again. This time we took shelter in the beer tent where Rad discovered a spinning neon sign that left him mesmerized and filled up the 30 minutes we waited for the rain to stop. So, we got seven rides out of our $15, still better than buying tickets (21-28 tickets would have come to just a bit more than $15) and went to get a good seat in for the Derby. Also, more popcorn. And a water. And Jake had bacon-wrapped-deep-fried-meatballs. And pierogies. He said the meatballs weren’t very good. I’m not sure how that’s possible.

8PM is mighty late for our little guy, and the drawn out lining up process for the first round put the start at 8:15. Rad watched intently, got to see one car flip over and another on fire (pro tip: RX7s and similarly shaped cars are bad for this sport; their hoods are like ramps for the other cars and you will likely be driven over and possibly smooshed, the driver was so shaken up by the car that launched itself up his hood that he actually left the derby).  There were firemen flipping cars, spraying hoses and generally being everything a three-year old would hope a fireman would be. That round was over by 8:35, Raddy thought the whole thing was over, declared it both fun and too loud and asked to go home. Who am I to argue?

All the way home: Why did that car flip over? Why did that car catch on fire? Why was there steam? and smoke? Why is it night? Why is it dark? Where is the moon? Where is the sun? Why do we not have the sun? Where does the sun go? Why did that car lose its wheel? Why was it loud? and so on. Then at home he recreated the demolition derby on his road rug on his bedroom floor, complete with fire truck, John Deer Gator, ambulance and tow trucks. And finally at 9:45, he went to sleep.

It’s not a cheap night. $5 admission for each adult to the fair, $15 for the rides, another $8 for each of us to the derby–$49 just in admission plus food and drink. But the happy little boy (and the epic people watching; I need to go back just to watch the people…) was totally worth it!